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Jubilee - Last of the sgoth Niseach

During the latter half of the 19th century, Ness was a major producer of cured ling and cod; with approximately 10% of the fishermen in the Isle of Lewis being resident in Ness. The fish, caught using baited lines, was exported throughout Europe and provided a major source of revenue for what was otherwise an impoverished rural community that survived on the produce of small parcels of croft land and some livestock.

The design of the Sgoth Niseach ensured it was well suited to the particular set of conditions that 19th century Ness fishermen operated under. These vessels had to be relatively small and light to allow them to be launched manually and landed from the beach. However, this also had to be balanced with a structurally strong and robust design that could survive the rigors of fishing in the uncompromising water of the Atlantic Ocean.The Jubilee was built in 1935 by John F. MacLeod, a local boat-builder from Port of Ness. The sgoth was built for Malcolm Macleod, a fisherman from Borve and was registered at the port of Stornoway (number SY 233). The Jubilee was one of the second generation class of Sgoth (16-17 foot keel, 26-27 foot overall), which was developed after W.W.I - when long-line fishing had begun to go into serious, and ultimately terminal, decline. Smaller vessels like the Jubilee were principally used to fish for domestic needs rather than exports and used lighter small-lines (lion-beag) to fish nearer port.

Throughout W.W.II, the Jubilee remained largely unused; with many local fishermen being drafted or volunteered for National Service - serving mainly in the Royal and Merchant navies. With the ending of hostilities, the vessel was then bought by an energetic crew from the port of Skigersta, Ness. For several years, this crew used it for small-line fishing; mainly for haddock, flounder and cod which was then sold within the Island.

During the late 1950s, the Jubilee was once again sold and spent the next few decades outwith the district of Ness.Amongst other things, Ness is famous for the annual trip some of its young men make to Sulasgeir (Gaelic:- Gannet Rock), a rocky outcrop situated approximately 40 miles north of the Butt of Lewis. Each year, during the month of August, 2,000 young gannets are culled on the rock, under licence. The birds are cleaned and salted on Sulasgeir before being brought back to Ness for consumption. This centuries old tradition dates back to the times when local families were unable to easily sustain themselves on the meagre food and produce being cultivated on their small crofts, or from fishing during unproductive years. Consequently, generations of Ness families were dependent on the salted gannet meat that was brought back from the rock. Although the tradition still continues, the Jubilee - in August 1947 and accompanied by the ageing Peaceful - was the last sailing vessel to undertake this annual trip to Sulasgeir.

In 1978, following a number of years of inactivity and general neglect, the Jubilee was purchased on behalf of the Ness community by a group of local enthusiasts and brought back ‘home’ to Ness. By this time, the vessel had fallen into a state of serious disrepair. Furthermore, since being built, several alterations had been made to the boat; particularly, the addition of a wheel-house and deck. The newly established Ness-based Sgoth Committee immediately decided to try to restore the vessel to its former splendour.

For this purpose, a restoration fund was established to enable this work to be carried out.Appropriately, Mr J. M. Macleod - the son of the builder who had originally built the Jubilee - was engaged to undertake the restorative work. Mr MacLeod had recently retired from lecturing in navigation and seamanship at the Lews Castle College. For many years he had successfully managed to combine teaching with his first love; building wooden sailing craft using the traditional skills and techniques he had earlier learned in his father’s boat-building yard at Port of Ness.

Having secured the necessary funding, work commenced on returning the Jubilee to being a sail-powered, Ness type skiff. This involved: the removal of the ‘foreign’ deck and wheelhouse which now masked her former lines; replacing or repairing damaged timber; refitting and re-sewing the vessel with new ironmongery and fastenings; and re-equipping her with a new dipping lug sail.

In 1980, the Jubilee was once again launched from Port of Ness harbour. Over the succeeding years, the boat has made a number of sailing trips around Ness and further afield. In 1995, in support of the ‘Sulaire Project’, the Jubilee underwent additional remedial work. These repairs were strictly short-term because of limited funds and were undertaken to enable a competent crew to be trained to sail a Sgoth Niseach.

After a lengthy period of inactivity and being out of the water, the sgoth deteriorated and lay unused.  But in 2005 an arts project that required the use of a traditional sail powered fishing boat offered funding for substantial renovation work to the Jubilee, which was carried out in the spring and early summer of that year.  The Jubilee was relaunched in July 2005 in time to take its rightful place in the annual Sail Hebrides Festival.

With her stylish new red livery, chosen especially for her part in a videotaped drama based on the lives of the people of St Kilda, the Jubilee’s fine lines are once again gracing Hebridean waters following much-needed repairs and refurbishment by Ullapool Boatbuilders.

With the renovations costing over £10,000, and a further £5,000 being invested in safety equipment to protect the boat and offer crews and members of the public all reasonable security while at sea, the Jubilee is once again an icon of our Hebridean maritime heritage that will continue to give joy to sailors and enthusiasts alike for years to come.

Sailing back to Lewis aboard Jubilee were skippers Alasdair Smith (Borve); Andrew McVean (Valtos); Ian Stephen (Benside), with crew members Angus ‘Bobby Ruadh’ Morrison (Skigersta); Alex J Bell (South Dell); Innes Smith (Aignish) and Peadair Smith (Borve).

The boat, which will be berthed for most of the year in safe anchorage in Stornoway, will be available to the public for sail training and boat trips during much of the year, subject to the availability of registered skippers and crew. 

Jubilee remains under the ownership of Comun Eachdraich Nis and will be managed on its behalf by Falamadair, the North Lewis Maritime Trust. 

Anyone wishing to be involved with the management or maintenance of the boat, or is interested in sailing or learning to sail, please contact the following for further details:  Hugh MacInnes (01851 810262), Angus Smith (01851 810067) or Carola Bell (01851 810525).   [International: +44]

The Journey Home

Ian Stephen, who spearheaded the funding and renovation work on behalf of Falmadair, travelled with other crew members to Ullapool to sail Jubilee on her return voyage home.  This is Ian’s account of Jubilee’s launch and journey back to Lewis on 9 July 2005.

“Sgoth Jubilee departed Ullapool harbour at 0630 last Saturday morning (10^th July). She floated to her marks thanks to lead cast from the roof of the old Sail Loft in Stornoway, transported from the other side of the Minch.

“The previous few days had been a bit of a flurry as always.  Mark Stockl of Ullapool Boatbuilders worked hand-in-hand with volunteers to fit the ironwork and set up gear.  Alasdair Smith from Borve, who skippered her on her shakedown sail up Loch Broom, attended the lift and launch.  Peadair Smith held the rebuilt rudder while I bored the holes to fix the newly made and galvanized gudgeons and pintels designed by chalk marks on steel plates on the floor of Calum Stealag’s, the blacksmith.

“But we were now ready. Jubilee was fitted with new rope and chain supplied at a generous discount by Gael Force Marine.  Her built-in buoyancy was supplemented by huge fenders fitted low in the vessel so the figures showed she would float with all gear, if ever she was swamped. They were also the vessel’s on-board 4-piece suite - good padding for those used to hard thwarts.

“Sean Stephen and Barbara Ziehm had served many days in the painting squad but their role today was driving El Vigo – their 33ft wooden yacht - along as the standby boat.  Donny Vann’s links with the company who distribute International Paints had yielded a superb quality package of finishings, leaving the Jubilee shining in Signal Red. 

“Smith, father and son, had taken the checkerboard detail on the top strake in hand, with some customized variations of course.  As a relative of some of the former Skigersta owners of the boat, big Bobby the joiner was especially welcome.  Innes Smith (Aignish), whose father assisted John Murdo Macleod in building An Sulaire, took his share of helming. Chippy (Alec John Bell) combined comedy with seamanship.  He took an anxious look to see how well all his own metal fabrications had been fitted before relaxing into the voyage.  Andrew McVean, one of An Sulaire’s team of skippers, brought many years of experience to the dream team.

“A borrowed outboard motor took us clear of Loch Broom, in calm conditions.  Seamus Smith expertly steered El Vigo close enough to pass flasks of coffee and supplies. And then we were clear and ready to hoist the old sail on a new mast.

“Alasdair elected to sail her free out towards Cailleach Head before getting the tack in. This tactic proved good, leaving us on port tack, hard on the wind, all the way across. As the southwest wind hovered from a Force 2 to nudging force 5, we reefed up and down many times. The load was shared between the full team and there weren’t many lapses in the craic.  Although we had access to hand-held GPS and to El Vigo’s navigation gear we elected to make the crossing on compass course alone, in misty conditions. Old style.

“So how did she do? Sailed too well for us. We’d hoped for a 12-hour passage and got it. But she made far less leeway than we expected, thanks to that Sail-Loft lead in the right place.  So our margin of safety upwind was not needed in the end.  Had we known she would do so well on the wind we could have knocked an hour or more off. The Arnish sheds appeared and we were able to bear away. Andrew had the skipper’s cap on then and moved the tack back to get her shifting with the wind just on the quarter. She seemed to like that.

“I’d thought we were laughing too much to be emotional but there was quite a moment when other members of Jubilee’s family met her in Stornoway harbour.  She’s come a long way since DR Macleod’s truck and crane lifted her from outside Lionel School.

“The team are grateful to The Sail Loft Project, run by the Highland Buildings Preservation Trust, and to Proiseact nan Ealan as the main funders of the renovation. The crew are also grateful to all the shore-based support, in the way of admin and fund-raising.  Hugh, Angus and Carola did a stunning job. Thanks to all the other many funders and those who provided labour and materials. It’s a tribute to her original builders and the seamanship of her first crews that she can still inspire dedication.”

The Journey Home by Ian Stephen