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Account of Scotland
1791-1799
Parish of Barvas
(County of Ross, synod of Glenelg, Presbytery and Island of Lewis)
The
following census report, written by the Rev. Donald MacDonald, the
parish minister in Barvas during the late 18th century, offers a
fascinating insight into life in north Lewis towards the end of the 18th
century.
Name, Situation and Extent:
The parish of Barvas does not furnish much room for statistical
investigation, and the few observations which occur respecting it, may
be comprehended within narrow bounds. As to the origin of its name,
little but conjecture can be advanced; it is generally thought to be
Danish or Norwegian, as the names of several other places on this coast
indubitably are. It is situated in the western extremity of the county
of Ross, synod of Glenelg, and presbytery of Lewis.
It is
extensive, being in length from east to west 24 computed miles, and,
upon an average, 9 miles in breadth; bounded on the west by a district
of the parish of Lochs; on the north, by the Atlantic Ocean; on the east
by the Minch; and on the south, by the parishes of Stornoway and Lochs.
Surface and Soil:
The surface of the whole parish is pretty plain, except a few
hills, at a considerable distance from the sea, and some small glens or
vallies through which rivulets run. The soil, as may naturally be
supposed in such a vast track of ground, is various. The district
called Claddoch is light, thin, spouty ground, and in many places so
full of stones, that the plough cannot go through it.
Ness
consists of fine large level fields, composed of loam, sand, gravel, and
deep clay, which, in good seasons, produce tolerable crops, and in the
hands of more skilful and substantial tenants might be turned to a very
good account.
The
sea-coast, taking in the various points that jut out into the sea, may
be reckoned about 30 computed miles. It is bold and rugged, having a
tremendous surf or swell upon it, when the wind blows from the west and
north-west. There is not a single harbour where a vessel can anchor,
and but a few creeks where boats can land, even in the finest weather.
Climate and Diseases:
It is well known, that a great deal of rain falls in most parts
of the west and north-west of Scotland. There is, however, less here
than upon the mainland coast, or even in the adjacent parishes, the high
hills which collect the vapours, and break the clouds, being at a
considerable distance. The frost is seldom very intense; the snow, in
general, not deep, or of long continuance. The air, though moist, is
salubrious.
Rheumatism, the general complaint of all moist climates, is very common;
it is rather a matter of surprise that it is not more frequent,
considering their damp and dirty houses. How much the inhabitants are
exposed to rain and cold, and their clothing poor. Flannel-shirts,
which are in general worn by the common people, may be a good antidote
against it. Fevers and fluxes are not uncommon; and many infants die of
a complaint called “the five nights sickness,” from their dying of it
upon the fifth or sixth night. There are no instances of any who have
been seized with it that escaped, nor has the nature of this uncommon
disease been as yet fully comprehended by the most skilful upon this
island.
Rivers, Woods, etc:
There is not a single tree, or even any, brushwood, to be seen
in the whole parish. There are several small lakes or lochs, and some
rivulets, but no stream that deserves the name of a river. In these are
various kinds of trout, and in a few of them some salmon.
Upon
the minister’s farm is a small water, where a few fine salmon, though of
a small size, are caught from the month of May till August. There are a
few cod, ling, and haddock taken upon the coast; but the principal
fishing is that of dog-fish, from the liver of which they extract a
considerable quantity of oil. Upon an average, there are about 8832
Scotch pints annually manufactured of it, and sold to the Stornoway
merchants at from 6d. to 8d. per pint. Five of the annual bounties or
premiums given by the Trustees for encouraging this trade are generally
gained by boats in this parish. The season for it is from the beginning
of May to the latter end of August, when the weather proves favourable.
Indeed, it must be very moderate before they can venture to sea, which
makes them exceedingly cautious when the wind blows off the land, lest
they be driven to the northern ocean.
It is
very astonishing how few accidents happen, considering the terrible seas
they encounter, and the badness of the creeks where they land. The
number of boats employed in this fishing is about 42, from 16 to 19 feet
keel, some of 8, and others of 6 oars. Their only implement is a
hand-line, with two large hooks.
Agriculture, Cattle, etc:
There are in the parish about 90 ploughs, and all, except one (used
by the minister) of a singular construction. They are made of a crooked
small piece of wood, on the top of which is fixed a stilt or handle.
The man who holds it walks by its side and directs it by this stilt. As
no oxen are used here, it is drawn by four small horses. The driver, if
he can be so called, goes before the horses and pulls them on by the
halter.
In some
places the ground is turned up by two instruments well known in the
Highlands, called crooked and even spades. In most of these parts the
ground is so rugged and full of stones that the plough cannot go through
it.
There
are no carts used in the parish, except by the minister. The manures
are cow-dung, and tangle or sea-ware. There is another kind universally
used here, perhaps not known elsewhere: their houses are thatched with
stubble and heather ropes (ropes made of heath). Their roofs are so low
and flat, and they burn such quantities of peat, their only fuel, that
the stubble is abundantly covered over with soot. In the latter end of
May, when the barley brard (blade) appears, they take this sooty stubble
and strew it thinly upon it, which sometimes produces a tolerable crop,
but must scourge the ground.
The
only crops reared here are black oats, barley, and potatoes, sown in
April and May, and reaped in September and October. The returns are in
general poor, owing to the poverty of the soil, and the cold and
boisterous gales from the northern ocean, to which the lands are much
exposed.
The
parish abounds in horses, black cattle, and sheep, perhaps too many for
the pasture. There is no saying, with minute exactness, what the number
of each may be. Horses, according to a survey lately made, were
calculated at 1050; black-cattle, 2670; sheep, 3392. The horses and
cows are of a very small size, partly owing to the pasture, but more so
to the little attention paid to the proper selection of bulls and
stallions, by which they are yearly decreasing, and must continue so to
do till this evil be remedied.
All the
sheep, except a few of the black-faced kind introduced by the minister,
are remarkably small. They roam at large through the moor, without any
herdsman to attend them. Though very wild, they are in general,
however, so far tame, that they can be driven into small enclosures,
where the wool is pulled off. A barbarous custom, which certainly must
be detrimental to the animal and its wool, and indeed proves fatal when
the weather happens to be severe immediately after this plucking.
The
horses, though small, are remarkably hardy and mettled. The beef and
mutton sweet and well flavoured. Horses, upon an average, sell at L. 2,
10s; cows and stots at L.2, 5s; and sheep at 3s. each.
Population:
It is impossible to say what number of souls might have been in the
parish, as there never were any registers kept. Population, however, is
allowed to be on the increase, chiefly owing to the farms being much
smaller than in former times.
There
are in the parish, 439 families, 2006 souls, 914 males, 1092 females.
Souls under 6 years old, 334; ditto betwixt 6 and 14 years, 407; ditto
betwixt 14 and 60 years, 1067; and above 60, 198.
In 1755, the population, by Dr Webster’s list, was 1995.
There
are 14 weavers, 5 tailors, 7 blacksmiths, 340 fishers and a miller.
There is not one man by profession a shoemaker. The most of the
inhabitants supply themselves with shoes or brogues. Nor, indeed, do
any of the above tradesmen depend wholly upon their occupations, all of
them having small farms. There are two women living in the parish, one
of whom says that she is 100 years old, and the other 102.
Church, Schools & Stipends:
The Crown is Patron; Colonel Francis Humberstone Mackenzie of
Seaforth sole heritor.
All the
inhabitants are of the Established Church of Scotland. There are two
places of worship in the parish. The church close by the manse is a
perfect ruin, and is to be rebuilt first summer. The one in the
district of Ness, about 12 computed miles from the manse, an old Popish
church, called St Peter’s, was enlarged and rebuilt last year; it is
thatched with heath.
The
rent of the parish is about L. 900 Sterling, besides kelp, which was
never attempted here till within a few years back. It is thought the
shores will produce 60 tons once in three years. The stipend, till this
year, was only, 1000 merks Scots, and L. 5 Sterling for a glebe, to
which Colonel Mackenzic added L. 20 Sterling. The present incumbent, Mr
Donald Macdonald, was settled in 1790. His predecessors were Messrs
Alexander Mackay, and Murdoch and Donald Morrisons. The manse is small;
was built about 28 years ago, and repaired last year at a considerable
expense. The kitchen, which is the only office-house, was repaired and
slated at the same time.
There
has not been a parochial school here for many years back. But Colonel
Mackenzie, who is very desirous to have schools erected, contracted with
an undertaker two years ago to build a school-house near the manse. But
owing to various circumstances, it has not yet been accomplished. There
has been a charity-school established in the district of Ness by the
Honourable Society for many years back.
It is
to be lamented, that the people in general have as yet so little taste
for education. There are only about 20 scholars who attend; though,
from the compactness of the district, triple that number might attend
daily from their parents houses. The schoolmaster, however, is of great
service in such a remote comer, by his diligence in catechising and
reading to the people on every Lord’s day, when the minister is not
there.
Mrs
Mackenzie of Seaforth, whose zeal for the good of her people is
conspicuous upon all occasions, has erected two spinning-schools, with a
salary of L. 6 Sterling to each of the mistresses. To aid her in this
laudable undertaking, the Honourable Society resolved to pay one-half of
said salary. The girls are taught gratis, have 10d. for every
spindle they spin, and to encourage them, they have their wheels at a
low rate. Many of the poorest have them gratis. She allows 2
lb. of coarse lint for themselves to begin with. Besides, as a spur to
industry and emulation, annual competitions are held, when premiums are
given to the best spinners.
Poor:
There are 80 upon the poor-roll who are chiefly supported by the
charity of the inhabitants, by begging from house to house. Any support
they get from the kirk-session is by no means adequate to their
maintenance.
There
is about L. 4 annually distributed amongst them, (arising from the
weekly collection and mulets), together with 5 guineas of a yearly
donation from Mrs Mackenzie of Seaforth, whose benevolence and charity
have been of universal good throughout this whole island. She has,
besides, upon her list, two very great objects in this parish, to each
of whom she allows three bolls of meal annually.
There
is another mode here for supporting the poor which shows the charitable
disposition of the inhabitants. Being in general scarce of money for
the weekly collection, they, every spring, collect a certain quantity of
grain or feed, which is regularly divided by the kirk-session amongst
the objects upon their roll.
Antiquities:
Several ruins of Popish chapels or churches are to be seen in the
parish. Round most of them are burying-grounds, which to this day are
used for that purpose. A few of them can only be traced by the
foundation-stones. The walls of others are pretty entire.
The
largest and most entire is that at Eoropie in Ness, dedicated to St
Mulvay. It seems to have been the principal one, and undoubtedly used
as a place of worship. It is 50 feet long, 24 broad and 16 feet in the
side walls. The people around it, pay it as yet a great deal of
superstitious veneration, and indeed some of them retain still a few of
the Popish superstitions.
A
little to the north of it stood St Ronan’s, and close by it, to the
south, stood a house, built by one of the Macleods, once the proprietors
of this island. There is still a piece of wall standing, called by them
Macleod’s Gate. The stones are mostly carried away by the tenants for
building their houses. Some hundred yards to the south of that is a
small mount, which evidently bears the mark of having once a building
upon it, called Caistel Olgre, (Olaus his Castle).
The
names of the rest, which are but small in comparison to St Mulvay’s,
are: St Peter’s in Habost; St Thomas’s in Swainbost; St Clement’s in
North Dell; Holy Cross at South Galson; St Bridget in Barvas; St Peter’s
in Lower Strather; St Mary’s in Upper Barvas; and St John the Babtist’s
in Bragar.
Betwixt
Borve and Galson, upon an eminence at a small distance from the sea, may
be seen the ruins of a very large dun, or Danish fort of a circular
form, with passages and small apartments in the walls, the only entry
was from the top. Tradition says that there was a subterranean
communication from the sea, of which no vestiges can now be traced.
There is another of the same kind in a lake at Bragir, called Loch Duis,
but not so large. Three more are to be seen in three small lakes behind
Strather and Borve, at a considerable distance from the sea, each of
them having a causeway leading to them, which are visible in dry
weather.
Betwixt
Barvas and Strather, in the middle of a deep moss, where no other stones
are to be seen, and at a considerable distance from the sea, there is a
very large stone sanding upright, called Clach i Drushel, famous
for nothing but its size, being 18 feet above ground, and 14 feet in
circumference, having no figures upon it, as erroneously related. The
vulgar tradition concerning it, is too absurd and superstitious to
deserve any notice.
The
island of Rona, situate in the northern ocean, about 16 leagues distant
from Eoropie Point, or the butt of the Lewis, (which is reckoned the
furthest to the north-west of any in Europe), belongs to this parish.
It is reckoned a mile in length, and half a mile in breadth. There is a
temple in it dedicated to St Ronan. It is rented by one of the Ness
tacksmen at L. 4 Sterling per annum, who regularly, every season, sends
a large open boat, and brings from it some corn, butter, cheese, a few
sheep, and sometimes a cow, besides some wild-fowl and feathers. There
were once five families residing upon it, but now only one, who are
employed by the tacksmen as servants.
The
rock Sulisker lies 4 leagues to the east of Rona. It is a quarter of a
mile in circumference, and abounds with a great variety of sea-fowl.
The boat which goes to Rona, generally touches there for fowls and
feathers. There is in Ness a most venturous set of people, who for a few
years back, at the hazard of their lives, went there in an open
fix-oared boat, without even the aid of a compass. There is no place in
it where they can draw up their boat. Some of them continue in it,
taking shelter under the lee-side of the rock, whilst the rest are busy
in taking the birds, who are so tame that they knock them down with
sticks. Their feathers sell at Stornoway, at from 9 to 10 s. per stone.
Miscellaneous Observations:
There are neither moles, frogs, foxes, or weasels, in the parish, nor
any hares, till of late a few made their appearance from a breed
introduced into the island by Seaforth. It abounds with pidgeon,
plover, snipe, and vast variety of wild-geese and ducks. The swan,
woodcock and green plover, appear in their season. The coast abounds
with a variety of sea-fowls. Eagles, corbies and crows, are numerous,
and often prove destructive to the young lambs.
The
greatest disadvantage this parish lies under, is, the want of roads and
bridges. From this side of the island to the village of Stornoway is
reckoned from 12 to 18 miles of a broken swampy moor without so much as
the form of a road across this long and fatiguing space.
The
poor people are under the necessity of carrying every article almost, to
and from Stornoway, upon their backs. Colonel Mackenzie, who is very
eager to remedy this evil, has, for a few years back, begun a road to
open a communication betwixt both sides of the island, and carried it
forward about five miles at a great expense. In place of the
statute-labour, every man, from 16 to 6o years of age, pays 1 s. 6d.
There
is only one annual fair for selling cattle held in this whole island.
Consequently, the sellers are under the necessity of disposing of them
at that time, having no chance of seeing any other buyer during that
season, except for such fat cattle as are purchased by the Stornoway
merchants.
Until
there be a comfortable communication opened betwixt both sides of the
island; until the breed of cattle of every kind be improved, and some
mode contrived for a better market for them, this parish must labour
under great disadvantages. On the other hand, it is no small advantage,
in such a high and cold latitude, to have such abundance of very fine
peats close by their houses in general.
The
fish of different kinds are most beneficial, especially that of the
dog-fish, the oil of which brings a considerable sum of money. The
fish, when properly cured, has, by long experience, both found to be
wholesome food. The snow seldom lies deep or long, a circumstance highly
favourable to sheep and black-cattle. As the lands were never measured,
it is impossible to say with any certainty what the number of acres may
be, but the extent of the cultivated land bears no proportion to the
uncultivated.
The
common language of the parish is Gaelic. The names of places are
derived from the Norwegian language, and by those who understand it, are
allowed to be very expressive of their situation. |
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