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The traditional 19th-20th century 'blackhouse' is still remembered affectionately by many who associate these dwellings with a romanticised view of Hebridean life and, of course, those people who genuinely recall with fondness the close-knit community and sense of 'cairdeas' (fellowship) that was such a vital part of village life during this period.
 
The nuclear family (a couple and children) is characteristic of contemporary living, with members of the family spending quite a bit of their day away from the home: working; shopping; attending college; using public services or enjoying leisure pursuits.  

ABOVE RIGHT: A typical 'blackhouse' in Lionel, Ness, with the the villages of Eoropie, Fivepenny and Knockaird in the background showing signs of agricultural (crofting) activity.  C. 1935
 

But family life in the blackhouse was very different.  As well as accommodating an extended family that included grandparents, the 18th and 19th century blackhouse was a highly industrious, multi-functional, unit.  It combined often-cramped living accommodation with other demands on floor space.  This included livestock being kept within the dwelling; storage for produce, such as grain and potatoes; food production, like baking or making butter; fish and meats that were often hung in the roof space to cure amid the smoke from the open peat fire.

The dimensions of these houses varied, depending on circumstances.  But the typical dwelling found at the restored village of Gearranan – originally built in 1860 - on the west coast of Lewis is about 40-50 feet in length, with an interior width of 10-12 feet.  The buildings external corners were usually rounded, with great care taken to ensure that the outer walls, built of undressed stone, were slightly tapered to allow rainwater to drip off and not permeate though into the interior.

These old vernacular buildings proved to be very strong and durable, with low roofs and massively thick walls to minimise damage from the prevailing westerly wind, provide a buffer against extremes of external temperatures and retain heat within the building.  To help reduce draughts within the building, sheep’s wool was also used to plug gaps or joints.

As the 1845 Statistical Account (census) confirms, the lack of trees and scarcity of basic building materials during the late 19th century Lewis made the construction of housing very difficult:  “Not a vestige of wood, or tree, and scarcely of a shrub except the wild heath, is visible on the surface of the earth.  This gives the country a barren appearance.”

To make the best use of available space or scarce resources like stone for building, It was not uncommon to find two or more blackhouse homes sharing an end to form a semi-detached or ‘terraced’ row of houses, as described in a 1905 report on sanitary conditions in Lewis:

“The living-room of the neighbouring house abuts on, and its wall is really a part of that composing the byre of this habitation.  Other houses in Bragor [sic] are of the same type as in Back and Tong, except that the byre and living-room are, as a rule, one apartment.” 

In the days before the Welfare State, blackhouse village life was usually characterised by well-established, informal, support networks, where extended families, relatives and neighbours helped each other as best they could.  This co-operation extended to animal husbandry; shared machair or hill grazing; looking after the children, elderly or sick; harvesting the season’s crops; bringing the year’s supply of peat fuel home; sharing surplus food and, of course, burying the dead.

  Making the best use of everything at their disposal, the 19th century Gaels put the ever-present, choking, peat smoke from the open fire to good use.  Meat and fish was hung in the roof-space where the smoke was particularly concentrated.  Here it would dry and be slowly ‘kippered’ to provide some variety to the basic diet and, importantly, the smoke also preserved the meat long before refrigeration became available.  Crofters even found a use for the smoke-encrusted thatch that adorned the roof.  Replaced with new every few years, the old thatch proved to be an excellent natural fertiliser.

The blackhouse floor was slightly inclined to ensure that surface water and animal manure drained away from the house end of the building.  But without proper drainage networks within island townships, animal waste from the blackhouse sometimes leached away into the ground, contaminating springwater and wells that were used by both residents and livestock.

LEFT:  Margaret Campbell from Lionel photographed in 1936 carrying a creel full of peat while knitting socks.
Mairead an Arcaich, Lional, le cliabh mònach ‘s I a’ fighe stocain aig an aon àm. (1936).

Later, towards the end of the 1800s, a chimney fire became an increasingly standard feature, built into a stone partition wall separating the two halves of the building.  This was done at the request of the Lewis District Board, which subsequently pushed for a second fire in the home.

By the 1850s mainland influences saw a new house design emerging that was single walled, cemented with lime based mortar and having a pitched roof.  This evolution in design (single walls with no turf cavity; square corners; flat, light-coloured, walls; gable chimneys; glazed windows in walls; pitched roof, etc) gave rise to the descriptive name ‘taigh geall’ (whitehouse) to describe these new dwellings.  To differentiate these from the traditional thatched buildings that decorated the 19th century landscape, the more familiar term, ‘taigh dubh’, was born.  However, the more modern ‘taigh geall’ remained out of reach for most rural families until well into the 20th century.

 

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